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 Sunday, October 25, 2009
USE A PLASTIC BAG TO MOUNT A TIRE
Posted by John
Here's a tip that came in from my old friend Byron "Joe" Stout III down in Wichita, Kansas. Clip and paste the web address below into your Web browser (sorry, my hyper-link function isn't working right now) and will take you to a U-Tube video that shows a mam mounting a clincher tire on a 1921 Peugeot wheel. This trick eliminates the use of tire irons that could scratch the wheel. You simply put the thin, black, plastic garbage bag over the rim and push down. The slipperiness of the bag makes the tire go on quickly and easily. You do have to put the tube inside the tire first and position the valve stem through the hole in the rim. Also, you do not cover the valve stem hole with the plastic bag. Watch the video and you'll see how easy this technique works. Joe says he wishes that there was an equally simple way to remove the old tire!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6sH8WRl6yI
Sunday, October 25, 2009 2:19:21 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00) 
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Saturday, October 24, 2009
EASY CLINCHER TIRE INSTALL
Posted by John
Here's a tip that came in from my old friend Byron "Joe" Stout III down in Wichita, Kansas. Clip and paste the web address below into your Web browser (sorry, my hyper-link function isn't working right now) and it will take you to a U-Tube video that shows a man mounting a clincher tire on a 1921 Peugeot wheel. This trick eliminates the use of tire irons that could scratch the wheel. You simply drape a thin black plastic gargbage bag over the rim and push the tire down. The slipperiness of the bag makes the tire go on quickly and easily. You do have to put the tube inside the tire first and position the valve stem through the hole in the rim. Also, you do not cover the valve stem hole with the plastic bag. Watch the video and you'll see how easy this technique works. Joe says he wishes that there was an equally simple way to remove an original clincher tire!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6sH8WRl6yI
Saturday, October 24, 2009 1:59:16 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Friday, October 23, 2009
WILL '90 CARS EVER BE RESTORED?
Posted by John
It’s a question that you see discussed frequently in old-car magazines – will cars of the 1990s ever be restored? Some say “no way.” Others feel it’s just a matter of time. Auctioneers say that people start collecting the cars they wanted in high school when those cars turn 25 years old. The mortgage is paid, the kids have been put through college and suddenly the money is there to buy the dream car. I always accepted this view. Now, after taking a '90s car apart piece by piece, I've changed my thinking. People will certainly collect well-preserved 1990s cars. Some are doing this already. Other enthusiasts may even “fix up” a ‘90s car with minor repairs. But when it comes to a complete, ground-up restoration, I think that a 1990s car may be impossible to restore.
A 1994 Sunbird coupe inspired this “reality check.” The car was purchased to be an engine donor. It took about three and a half months of working nights and weekends to strip the car down to the bare essentials. When the job was finished, all that remained was the sub frame and body structure, the front A arms, the damaged right-hand door, the right rear quarter window, the backlight, the rear axle and suspension, the gas tank and a pair of temporary spare tires bolted to the rear wheel hubs (without brakes). In this form, the car was rollable and could be pulled away when all the parts were removed. As the car was disassembled, every part was “tagged and bagged.” Taking the car apart was supposed to be a “fun” project and a learning experience. Due to the complexity of the vehicle, stripping it down was more work than pleasure. The educational part of the job was also kind of a bust. For example, one would think that after taking hundreds of plastic electrical clips apart, you’d learn the right ways to disconnect them, but it seems like the factory procedure is to break the clip, throw it away and get a new one for reassembly. That’s great for GM clip sales, but what will future restorers do when all the clips are gone? Many parts on a 1990s car are fully recyclable and will soon be impossible to find. I believe that no one will ever do full restorations on '90s cars.
Friday, October 23, 2009 3:24:04 AM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Thursday, October 22, 2009
Cool Site For Restoration Tips and Advice
Posted by John
I just ran across a site for restoration tips and advice. Visit www.secondchancegarage.com. Second Chance Garage provides hobbyists with the know-how they need to restore their own classic cars and trucks. The Second Chance Garage philosophy is that with the understanding of the basic skills of car restoration, the hobbyist can restore any car...the underlying theory and practices are the same. The site offers a wide variety of articles from How-To's, Auto Theory, Buyer's Guides, Garage Tips, Auto-Biographies, just to mention a few. Online since 2002, Second Chance Garage has over 400 articles along with engine specs and a large photo gallery. Check it out as soon as you get the opportunity. You'll like it.
Thursday, October 22, 2009 8:24:21 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Chevy Racing Legend Bill Tomas Dies
Posted by John
Chevrolet high-performance legend Bill Thomas, Sr., died on Saturday Oct. 10 in California.
Over the years, Chevrolet drew on the talents of selected individuals to improve and promote Chevrolet products. Bill Thomas was a man who helped Chevrolet achieve racing superiority and lock in its high-performance reputation.
When the Chevy II arrived, he devised a kit that allowed enthusiasts to readily drop a 327-cid Corvette V-8 into the new Chevy compact. The kit included complete chassis and drive train upgrades to go along with the bigger engine.
Thomas created racing versions of the Corvair, too. In 1962, he built a fuel-injected 327-powered Chevy II for the SCCA Production class at Riverside Raceway. Known as "Bad Bascom's Ghost," the car was banned by SCCA and wound up with racer Dickie Harrell, who shoe horned a 427 Z11 V-8 under the hood and called it "Retribution II." The car was very successful in match racing.
The Cheetah was a street performance and racing car built by Thomas in the early- to mid-‘60s to run wheel-to-wheel with Carroll Shelby's Cobras. The prototype Cheetah was largely the work of a Thomas’ employee named Don Edmunds, but Thomas personally coordinated support for the project. Using his racing connections, Thomas arranged to have Chevrolet provide the car’s major component parts including its engine, transmission and third member.
When the 1967 Camaro arrived to compete for sales in the “youth market,” the car was capable of accommodating big-block V-8 power. Bill Thomas became one of a handful of dealers nationwide who marketed “super Camaros.”
Working through the Chevrolet Engineering Product Performance Group headed by Vince Piggins, the factory provided support to independent drag racers, some of who were Chevrolet factory dealers and enthusiasts.
Bill Thomas was a major force in Chevrolet racing through his Bill Thomas Race Cars in Anaheim, Calif. Then, he linked up with Nickey Chevrolet of Chicago to put 427-cid 425-hp V-8s into Camaro chassis. The Nickey/Bill Thomas Camaros won many drag races and more than a few showroom sales.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009 4:36:48 AM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Monday, October 19, 2009
CURING LIFTER PROBLEMS ON OLD CARS
Posted by John
When “zero-lash” or “hydraulic” valve lifters caught on after World War II, they began to show up as a new-and-improved feature of many 1950s car. At first, mechanics of the era thought the days of making the valve lash adjustments required on solid-lifter engines were over. However, it didn’t take long for them to discover that even these new valve lifters could wear and that dirt could work its way into hydraulic valve lifters and cause problems.
When worn and/or dirty, hydraulic lifters would get sticky and make a racket. Car owners discovered that hydraulic lifters could click and clatter, too. Some brands of cars became known for their “lifter chatter” and enthusiasts of the day could identify certain cars by their distinctive underhood noises.
Fast driving often caused wear, while yesteryear’s carbon-fouled oils promoted the formation of sludge and varnish on engine parts such as lifters. When tearing down a modern engine, it is rare to find the caked-on carbon, black-colored parts and crusty creosote-like deposits that were commonly discovered in old engines disassembled not all that many years ago.
Back then, every mechanic knew the sound of a sticky lifter, but they also knew it was impossible to tell which lifters were making the noise. Most shops simply replaced all the lifters, since parts were relatively cheap and easy to get back then. In 1955, a set of lifters for a Cadillac overhead-valve V-8 cost about $16. The alternative was removing and cleaning every lifter and giving it a bleed-down test, which even at the era’s low labor rates cost more than new parts.
Today, the parts are harder to get and pricey, so it pays for hobby restorers to know about a way that old-time mechanics located noisy lifters. They figured out how to do this using a dial indicator type valve gapper. Eighty percent of cars with sticking lifters had problems because of varnish and gum building up between the barrel and plunger of the lifter. If these build-ups could be located, most bad lifters could be collapsed and cleaned with a fast-acting detergent.
First, the engine had to be started and allowed to idle long enough to reach operating temperature. Then, with the engine still idling, the tool’s barrel pin was placed in the lower hole and the valve gapper was set on each valve in turn. If the hands on the dial stayed steady, a lifter was OK. If the hand vibrated back and forth, it meant that a lifter was sticking or not working properly.
Mechanics usually chalk-marked the bad lifters. After all the lifters were checked, the barrel pin was placed in the upper hole again. Then, each of the bad lifters could be cleaned up. The valve gapper was placed on the valve spring assembly. Since the pin was now in the upper hole of the valve gapper, the lifter was put under enough increased tension to cause it to collapse. This depressed the lifter’s plunger into the barrel of the lifter, exposing any gum and varnish deposits. A squirt can was then used to force concentrated tune-up oil down the push rod, into the lifters, where it would usually dissolve the unwanted deposits.
After all of the bad lifters had been cleaned using this procedure, the barrel pin was moved back to the lower hole, so that the lifters could be re-checked in the same way they were at first. The mechanic would make doubly sure that all of the lifters that had been marked with chalk were no longer sticking. If a lifter was still bad, it meant that dirt was not the culprit. The lifter had a mechanical problem that could only be fixed by swapping in a different lifter.
The cost of checking lifters with a dial indicator valve gapper was approximately $15-$21 in 1957. This was less than the cost of removing and cleaning all lifters and far less than the cost of an overhaul with new lifters. Even though a set of lifters was only $16, the job also included labor, tune up oil and an oil and filter change, which made total replacement more expensive. With today’s high costs of vintage car parts, the savings would be even greater.
Monday, October 19, 2009 5:42:57 AM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Sunday, October 18, 2009
NOT A SPECK OF DIRT ON THE FLOOR
Posted by John
I bought a copy of this magazine called GARAGE STYLE. It must be something new, because I never saw it before. It's full of some great garage ideas and one after another fancy garages with not even a speck of dirt on the floor. Now, I wish my car building looked like those garages, but then I couldn't even tell I was "home." How would I know I was in my own building if there wasn't some dirt or oil spots on the floor? My idea of heaven isn't a shop with a spot-free checkerboard floor -- my idea of heaven would be another 12 feet added to my 72-ft. long building and a couple of more Backyard Buddy lifts inside so I could start stacking cars. What I need is more room for all the "good stuff" I accumulate.
Sunday, October 18, 2009 12:12:33 AM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Friday, October 16, 2009
CHANGE OIL FOR WINTER
Posted by John
Most of us have changed a car’s oil or watched while a garage or quick-lube shop did this basic job. Changing oil in an old car is much the same, but sometimes involves a unique twist or two.
Cars used in “city driving” require an oil change every 2.000-3,000 miles or 3-4 months, while those that are “country driven” can be serviced every 3,000-4,000 miles or six months. If your collector car sees more stop-and-go use, it needs more frequent service. Do it at least every 6 months to avoid driving with contaminated oil. If you have an original prewar or early postwar car and the owner’s manual recommends changes every 500-1,000 miles, follow it.
Determine your car’s oil capacity from your manuals. Buy the type of oil specified in your shop manual (or the modern equivalent). You’ll also need jacks or ramps, a drain-plug wrench (an adjustable may do), a drain pan, shop towels, oil dry, a funnel, work gloves and possibly hand cleaner. If the car has an oil filter, you’ll need a new one, plus an oil filter wrench and pliers.
Drive car at least 5-10 minutes to warm the oil. You will want to remove the plug and drain the oil while hot. Sometimes you can access the oil drain plug without lifting/jacking the car. Otherwise you’ll need to jack it up and place stand jacks under the frame to support the vehicle securely. If you have ramps or a lift, drive the car on them. Set hand brake. Chock the wheels so the car won’t roll.
Remove drain plug with your drain pan ready. If the car is high in the air, hold the drain pan right under the plug, then quickly lower it to the ground while arcing it out, under the flow of the draining oil. Once you learn to do this, you’ll get less splashing and spillage. If the car is only a foot or so off the ground, just put the pan right below the plug. It should take about 10 minutes for all oil to drain. During this time you can be checking other fluid levels. Also check the condition of the drain plug and any gasket it uses.
Most cars of 1968 or newer vintage use a spin-on oil filter, usually on the side or bottom of the engine. If the oil has been changed regularly, the filter may look cleaner than other engine parts. If the car has been sitting 30 years, the filter may be black with grime. In either case, use an oil filter wrench to unscrew it. Some are strap-on types and others grab on the fluted bottom of the oil filter. Once you have a grip, turn it counter clockwise. Place your drain pan under the filter. As you remove it, oil is going to pour out.
Before adding new oil, replace the drain plug by hand. Make sure it threads in straight. Do not cross thread or over-tighten. Then use your adjustable wrench to tighten, putting light pressure (about 20 foot-pounds) on it. As far as your spin-on oil filter, clean the treads on the engine fixture with a rag, put a new gasket on top of the oil filter, wet this gasket with a little engine oil and start threading the filter on by hand, turning in a clockwise direction. When it is fully hand tight, use an oil filter wrench to tighten it another ¼ turn.
Locate and remove the oil filler cap. It may cover a tube running to the side of the engine or it may be on top of the valve covers. Pour the correct amount of oil into the filler cap and replace the cap. In most cases, manuals will give you the oil pan capacity, then tell you to add one quart if the car has a filter.
Next, start the engine. Inspect for leaks around the oil filter or the drain plug. Check to make sure that the oil pressure monitor light stops glowing or that the oil pressure gauge indicates normal pressure within 5-10 seconds. After the engine runs for a minute or so and shows correct oil pressure (by monitor light or gauge), shut off the engine and give the oil half a minute to drain back into the pan. Now, use your dipstick to check the oil level and add oil as necessary.
As we said, old-car oil changes can be a bit different. Some old cars do not have oil filters or at least lack replaceable oil filters. Oil filters were an option for many ‘50s-and-earlier cars. When this extra was added, you got a canister type oil filter.
Some cars – like straight eight Pontiacs – had a non-replaceable, built-in mesh-type filter in the oil pan. Early-‘50s British sports cars came with horizontally-mounted canister filters, but many have been replaced with spin-on filter kits sold by British parts suppliers. The spin-on upgrade simplifies oil changes, but reduces originality.
Canister filters have a cartridge type filter that fits inside a metal container. On some, the container has a lid held on by a long bolt. Others run the bolt through the canister itself, drawing it tight against a fixture on the engine. Gaskets are provided to hold the oil in the canister where it seals against the lid or fixture. On some British cars, the gasket has to be fitted into a grove using a tool like a dental pick to do the trick installation. The parts must be in perfect shape to get a good seal. Rubber lines route the oil through the canister.
You can find old filters for canister-type oil filters at swap meets. If you do not, check www.rockauto.com. Some cars and trucks and all kinds of other machinery still use this style of filter. Chances are good that there’s a modern replacement that fits in the canister on your older vehicle.
After you have changed your oil, don’t forget to write down the date and mileage you did the oil change at. This will tell you when service is due again. Finally, take steps to dispose of the old oil (and oil filter if one is used) properly. Most recycling centers will offer provisions for this, as well as for getting rid of plastic oil containers.
Friday, October 16, 2009 2:54:54 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Thursday, October 15, 2009
FALL BATTERY CARE
Posted by John
Before doing any service to it, keep in mind that the storage battery in your car produces gases that can explode if a spark or flame ignites them. Also keep in mind that the fluid inside the battery is acidic. It can eat away paint, metal and skin. Wear heavy chemically-resistant rubber gloves and eye protection when working near a battery. Headgear with a full face shield, such as sold by Eastwood, is even better than goggles because it protects your facial skin..
Your collector cars may require more battery maintenance than your modern, everyday car. It depends on the vintage of your car and whether or not you have installed a old-fashioned battery or a modern, maintenance-free type.
Even if your collector car was made before sealed batteries became standard equipment, you can use a sealed battery in it today. However, if you want the car to appear authentic under the hood, you may have purchased an old-fashioned-looking “tar-top” battery with removable filler caps. These are sold at many flea markets and through ads in hobby publications.
On batteries with filler caps, battery fluid levels need to be checked regularly and maintained. To inspect the fluid level, all you need to do is twist the battery cell caps counter-clockwise to remove them and look into the opening. The fluid should be level with the filler ring, which is about an inch down in the opening. If the fluid is not up to that level, add distilled water until it is.
If you discover that the fluid level in your battery drops rapidly and constantly, it can indicate three types of problems. The electrical system may be over-charging the battery, the battery case may be cracked and leaky or the battery could have suffered some kind of internal damage. The last two problems require replacement of the damaged battery.
If your battery fluid level seems OK, the next step in maintaining it is to clean the battery terminals. Remove the battery cable connectors so you can get at the terminals. To avoid making a spark, disconnect the negative cable first. Later, it should be the last cable that you reconnect.
When reconnecting the cables, you can protect against future corrosion with a light coat of petroleum jelly, light grease or a spray-on protectant available in auto supply outlets. You can also buy red and green felt rings, impregnated with protectant, that slip over the terminals.,
You can use a commercial terminal cleaner or a solution of baking soda and water to clean the battery terminals. After applying the cleaner, brush the terminals until they are nice and shiny and be careful not to get cleaner or baking soda in the battery.
Determining the batteries state of charge can be accomplished by measuring the specific gravity (density) of the fluid in each cell with a device called an hydrometer. Simple battery testers are also available in auto parts stores. An hydrometer reading of 1.275 indicates a fully charged battery. Some hydrometers have floating balls inside the tester and give you a reading based on how many balls float in a test sample of the battery fluid. If one cell gives a reading 10 percent less than other cells, it indicates high resistance in that cell and the battery needs replacement.
Carefully clean the top of the battery of dirt, corrosion and battery fluid without getting anything on your skin. Also, be sure that the vent holes in the battery filler cups aren’t clogged. If you see cell damaged cell caps or any battery warpage, the battery is no good. It has either been over-charged or over-heated. There should be no cracks in the battery case.
A battery should never be installed loosely in a car. Some type of battery hold-down system is a must. A loose battery can cause acid spills or it can short out and cause a fire. In an accident, a loose battery can go flying through the car. The hold-down system should be tight enough to secure the battery, while not putting so much pressure on it as to crack the battery case. Rusty hold-down systems invite the formation of corrosion. Make sure the hold-down mechanism has a heavy coat of paint and coat bolts and nuts with gease or spray-on protectant so they remain easy to remove.
Be aware that the designs of some old-car batteries have changed slightly. For instance, the long, narrow EEE batteries used in some ‘40s and ‘50s cars are being manufactured today with the terminals spaced further apart. If the battery still has a factory-installed metal cover, the terminals on the newer-design battery may hit against the metal cover. This condition has been known to cause electrical shorts and fires. Make sure that your battery terminals and bare braided cables aren’t touching any part of a metal hold-down system.
When installing a battery in an old car, make sure that it is of the proper voltage for the car and correctly grounded. Many old cars right through the ’50s ised 6-volt electrical systems and require a 6-volt battery. Some old cars also came from the factory with positive-ground electrical systems. If you own a positive ground car, the + cable is the one that goes to the car’s frame – not the one that goes to the solenoid or starter! Reversed polarity can cause and explosion or can damage your car’s electrical system components.
Thursday, October 15, 2009 7:01:32 AM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Wednesday, October 14, 2009
AIR CLEANERS NEED LOVE TOO
Posted by John
Most likely, the air cleaner on your modern car is probably a throw-away item. When you bring your car in for an oil change or tune-up, the service technician takes the old filter out, gets a new one, pops it into a plastic housing, fastens some wire clips and away you go. In most cases, the new air filter costs less than $10 (although there are some high-performance filters on the market today that are re-useable, but cost $60 or more.)
Things were different in the “good old days.” Until the late 1980s, most cars had carburetors and what we simply call an “air filter” now was actually called a “carburetor air cleaner.” Throw-away type carburetor air cleaners started to appear in the late 1950s, but prior to that, the carburetor air cleaner was a component designed to be disassembled, cleaned and sometimes re-oiled in the spring and fall or at least every 10,000 miles of car use. And if a car was operated in areas where dust conditions were bad, it was recommended that the carburetor air cleaner be serviced every 2,000 miles.
By the 1940s, most automakers offered car buyers a choice of standard and oil-bath type carburetor air cleaners. Both types actually had to be re-oiled, but the oil-bath designs were heavy-duty in nature and had an oil reservoir. They are also more popular with modern collectors, since they were an extra-cost option.
Carburetor air cleaners served two functions. First, they filtered air entering the carburetor to keep abrasive dust from being carried into the engine. Second, they silenced the noise produced by air rushing into the carburetor.
With standard carburetor air cleaners, the filtering function was accomplished by passing air through a filter element that had been moistened in heavy engine oil. The element was made of a stiff metal mesh held between two circular sections of metal screening that fit into the top of a metal canister and were held in place by a lid. A thin bolt passed through a hole in the center of the lid and accepted a wing nut that held the lid on tightly.
The heavy-duty oil-bath type carburetor air cleaner was intended for use in cars driven in dusty areas where the standard air filter could not keep the air clean enough. The heavy-duty type had an oil reservoir in its base. The air entering the carburetor first had to impinge on the oil stored in the reservoir, which took out some of the heavier dust particles. The high velocity of the air stream picked up some of the oil and carried it upward into the filter element. This kept the element continually washed and moistened with oil.
Servicing an old-fashioned carburetor air cleaner is really quite simple, although it can be just a bit messy. It is also an operation that many newer old-car collectors aren’t personally familiar with, since they didn’t grow up in the era when these systems were in use.
To service a standard type carburetor air cleaner you start by undoing the wing nut and taking off the lid so you can remove the circular wire screens with the mesh held between them. Make sure you put the wing nut in a safe spot, as it is easy to lose. If you want to do a really good job, remove the entire air cleaner canister. It probably has a spread-ring that tightens around the neck of the carburetor with a screw-type clamp. There may be other braces securing it in position. By loosening attaching bolts it will come off fairly easy.
The wire mesh element can be cleaned in a parts washer or by plunging it up and down in a safe, non-volatile parts-cleaning solution made for use in a parts washer. (While your 1950s shop manual may say to use gasoline or kerosene for cleaning the element, that’s not exactly safe or politically correct today, so don’t do it.) If you removed the complete canister, you’ll want to clean that, too. Doing so will help give your engine that “show-detailed” look.
After cleaning the element, it should be re-oiled by dipping it in a plastic drain pan filled with clean engine oil. That’s right, you’re going to clean it, then dip it back in oil. Let the excess oil drain into your pan so it doesn’t mess up your engine compartment.
Clean all dirt out of the part of the air cleaner canister that the element seats in. Put the filtering element back in its proper position and re-install the lid and wing nut to hold it tightly in position. If you removed the entire canister, put it back on the carburetor and tighten any attaching clamps, screws and bolts.
Servicing an oil-bath type carburetor air cleaner requires somewhat the same steps, but in this case the entire canister must be removed from the car so that the oil in the reservoir can be replaced with fresh oil. The filter element is cleaned by plunging it up and down in the cleaning solution, but the mesh element does not have to be oiled. Instead, it will oil itself by the air velocity system described earlier.
In the winter, it was recommended to fill the reservoir with 20W oil. When the temperatures were above freezing, 50W oil was specified. For collector cars, the 50W spec will apply in almost all cases.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009 7:17:40 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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