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 Thursday, October 29, 2009
TINKER TONIGHT TOO
Posted by John
Thursday night is the time I work on my cars every week. So I will be busy in the garage tonight, but here are some quick tech tips I want to pass on before going out to the shop. Maybe one or two will help you with a project and have you tinkering away tonight, too.
When working on an engine that is going to be partly disassembled for a length of time, use duct tape, plastic or old newspaper and masking tape to cover up openings for bolt-on parts like manifolds and water pumps. This will keep dirt and debris out of the motor.
Sometimes long valve cover gaskets will be distorted by normal packaging and allow oil leaks. This can be remedied by unpacking the new gaskets and slipping them over the top of a spare valve cover for at least several hours before installing them.
If your car is missing on acceleration and has rubber spark plug boots, try the following remedy. Rubber spark plug boots that have become hard and carbonized with age will cause spark leakage and flashing. Cut off the boots and replace them with new ones.
Dirt and sediment build up in carburetors. Run the car at 1,000-2,000 rpm with the air cleaner off. Put your hand over the air intake until the car almost stalls. Repeat a few times. Engine vacuum pulls raw gas through the carburetor cleaning jets and passages.
Water pump squealing and hard to reach for lubrication? A foot-long piece of 1/8-inch copper tubing can be bent to reach into the lubricating hole. Use a windshield wiper hose on the upper end to couple a squirt-type oil can to the tubing and pump oil into the hole.
If the “Temp” indicator light on your ‘60s GM car is glowing, though the car is not overheating, be sure the ignition switch is completely returned to the “on” position from the “start” position. The light comes on in the “start” position to check that it is working.
Did you know that leaving a battery carrying strap on the terminals will cause a chemical reaction that results in a gooey white substance building up on the terminals? If you use a strap to remove a battery before storing a car, be sure to remove the strap.
Bent terminals or longer-than-stock screws on your voltage regulator can touch the metal firewall and cause electrical shorts. To prevent, this fasten a piece of gasket material or rubber tire patch to the firewall directly behind the voltage regulator terminals.
The taillights of an older car will burn brighter if you thoroughly clean up any heavy rust on the insides of the housings and then carefully paint the insides of the lamp receptacles with white enamel to increase their reflectivity.
To clean a car battery while it is out of the car, sprinkle a handful of sawdust on the battery. Let it stand for a few minutes, with the sawdust soaking up mud, moisture and corrosion. Then sweep it off and remove residue with your shop vac.
Having trouble separating a rusty tailpipe and muffler? Try loosening the clamp on the end of the muffler and slipping it down the pipe a few inches. Then, tighten it on the pipe and drive the pipe out of the muffler by striking the clamp with hammer blows.
A transmission gasket can stick to parts – especially a torque converter -- making it hard to remove. Try coating the gasket with paint and varnish remover. Wait a few minutes while this solvent sets into the gasket material and you’ll find that it strips off very easily.
Thursday, October 29, 2009 10:12:18 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00) 
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Wednesday, October 28, 2009
VW FAN BELT QUICK CHANGE
Posted by John
You gotta see this U-Tube video. How to change a VW fan belt in less than five minutes. To remove the old belt, the mechanic sticks a screw driver under the belt at just the right spot with the engine running. Viola. The belt jumps right off. Then he uses the reversed screwdriver handle against the top pulley to make it stop spinning, Next he balances the new belt on the tip of the screwdrive blade, loops it over the stationary top pulley and uses the screwdriver blade to quickly guide it onto the still-spinning bottom pulley. Sounds crazy but it works. Watch the video. He runs it twice.
By the way, Old Cars Weekly's software for this blog is acting up, so I can only print my entries as text only and I can't paste in hyper links. However, if you copy this address and paste it into your Web browser, it should get you to the VW fan belt video.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009 2:43:16 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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HEY, YOU, GET OFF OF MY CLOUD
Posted by John
This isn’t about Mick Jagger – it’s about what a car collector might say if someone sat on his Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud during a car show. Or his Chevy or Harley. And don’t think that it doesn’t happen. A recent letter to Hagerty Classic Insurance cited an extreme case that unfolded recently in Georgia. A man wouldn’t stop laying on a collector car and authorities finally had to lead him away.
Things don’t usually get that bad, but dripping ice cream cones, paint-scratching belt buckles and kids throwing stones can cause real damage to a car that took thousands of dollars to restore.
The first line of defense against drippers, sitters, chafers and scrapers is your own vocal cords. Stay by your car at the show and if someone gets close, politely point out your concern. Try not to yell or sound “uppity,” because such reactions can cause immature people to return and do bad things out of spite. The best approach is a firm, but friendly reminder that paint, chrome, glass . . . and even sheet metal . . . can be damaged quite easily.
To back up your physical presence -- or fill in when you can’t be around -- you can hang signs on your car. There are any number of these “look but don’t touch” signs available from various old-car parts vendors. To tell you the truth, some of them are fun to read, but they may not be all that effective in protecting your vehicle. People just don’t stop to read before squeezing past your fender.
Some collectors go further and rope their cars off with thin metal stakes and binder cord. These items can be purchased at most garden centers or farm supply stores and they do a great job for a small investment. Four of the stakes can easily be carried in the trunk of most collector cars. They are designed with a triangular blade that you step on to push them into relatively soft dirt. Put one at each corner of the vehicle then, string the cord. A few strands of Blaze Orange safety ribbon can be added to call attention to the cord.
Since many car shows park vehicles on asphalt, push-in stakes can’t always be used. To accomplish the same kind of protection, some hobbyists buy plastic stanchions and chains to serve the same purpose. These cost a bit more, but they certainly look better and can even enhance the image of a car being special. These items come in black and white and a variety of colors.
A product called the Auto Spin Portable Automobile Display Turntable was advertised not too long ago. It was pictured supporting a small 1930s car and it seemed to do a good job of holding the car off the ground, while allowing it to be rotated. You got the impression that a “floating” car might cause people to stand back a few feet. This device may be worth checking out at www.Auto-Spin.com.
Another place to look for barrier type products is in catalogs aimed at factory and facility managers. I am on the mailing list to get one of these and I usually scan it for things I might be able to use in my storage building. The catalog is sent out by a company named Direct Safety. It includes such things as Dayglow Orange safety cones, “Polycade” plastic barriers and safety mats that could be used around or under a car to keep the public at a safe distance. Visit www.directsafety.com to request a copy.
Before spending a fortune on such items and buying a trailer to haul them around, it would be a good idea to check with the promoters of local shows to see if they are permitted. Some events have restrictions. It may turn out that your vocal cords are still the best way to keep “belt buckle” troubles at bay.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009 2:18:38 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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Monday, October 26, 2009
SAY "CHEESE IT" TO MICE
Posted by John
In old cops-and-robber movies, “cheese it” meant “get out of here.” I haven’t heard that expression in years and I wish I could say the same about stories of mice ruining historic cars. It’s a shame to see the damage the little varmints can do when collectors store vehicles without taking precautions.
The best way to mouse-proof a car is to mouse-proof the building the car is in. Make sure it a “rat guard” – a barrier that goes around the bottom of the structure and into the ground. Rat guards are designed to keep pests from tunneling in.
Fill in spaces on the bottom of the walls with a foam that hardens or steel wool. Keep doors and windows sealed as tightly as possible. Use gaskets to seal openings for utility lines.
Keep food out of your building . . . and your cars. An army of mice travels on its stomach. If there’s nothing for them to eat, you win the war. Vacuum the interior. Remove crumbs and food scraps. Shampoo the carpets so they are squeaky clean and fresh smelling.
Mouse traps and poisons come in a variety of forms at various prices. They work, but remember that traps baited with cheese and poisons like those blue-green pellets are designed to attract mice, then kill them. Not attracting mice is a better plan of action.
Cats kill mice, but cats can also cause damage to cars or stink them Cats also require cat food that mice will eat.
Mice usually enter cars by running up the tires. If the vehicle is stored without tires, it is harder for them to get in. Removing the tires and using jack stands will also keep the tires from developing flat spots.
Mice commonly nest in the engine compartment, interior and trunk. Mice are drawn to warm engines of heater motors. Often you will find nests in the frame rail nearest the radiator. Mice will eat electrical wires and spark plug wires. Recently, one Studebaker collector hit on a simple way to keep an engine bay mouse-free – raise the hood. After he inadvertently left his hood up, his mouse problem went away. Mice like it dark. With the hood open, light got in.
Mice can enter cars through openings for pedals, steering columns and shifters. If you can tape such openings, mice will find it harder to get inside. Leave the sun visors in the down position or mice may nest under them and chew through the headliner. Use screening if you want to keep the windows slightly open for circulation.
Mice usually get into trunks through the rear seat. They can’t get in if you seal the openings. Some cars have drain holes in the spare tire well that should be taped over.
Mothballs can be placed on the floor around the car, but leave no gaps. You can also place mothballs or scented soap in a cake pan inside the car to keep mice away. In spring, the mothball smell can be removed by putting a Yankee Candle under the car seat on a hot day.
Cacoon-style bags seal the whole car. One type is a big plastic sack. You drive the car in and zip it up. A second type is a plastic bubble supported by a curtain of air. The air pump draws little current and promotes better airflow. Both bags work well if you use them properly. You must be very careful not to trap moisture in a zipper bag. The air-curtain type requires electricity.
Spot check the car every couple of weeks for signs of mice. If you see droppings or notice a mouse smell, you’ll first have to get rid of the mice. Then you’ll need to remedy the problem of the mice getting in the car.
Monday, October 26, 2009 5:01:42 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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Sunday, October 25, 2009
USE A PLASTIC BAG TO MOUNT A TIRE
Posted by John
Here's a tip that came in from my old friend Byron "Joe" Stout III down in Wichita, Kansas. Clip and paste the web address below into your Web browser (sorry, my hyper-link function isn't working right now) and will take you to a U-Tube video that shows a mam mounting a clincher tire on a 1921 Peugeot wheel. This trick eliminates the use of tire irons that could scratch the wheel. You simply put the thin, black, plastic garbage bag over the rim and push down. The slipperiness of the bag makes the tire go on quickly and easily. You do have to put the tube inside the tire first and position the valve stem through the hole in the rim. Also, you do not cover the valve stem hole with the plastic bag. Watch the video and you'll see how easy this technique works. Joe says he wishes that there was an equally simple way to remove the old tire!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6sH8WRl6yI
Sunday, October 25, 2009 2:19:21 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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Saturday, October 24, 2009
EASY CLINCHER TIRE INSTALL
Posted by John
Here's a tip that came in from my old friend Byron "Joe" Stout III down in Wichita, Kansas. Clip and paste the web address below into your Web browser (sorry, my hyper-link function isn't working right now) and it will take you to a U-Tube video that shows a man mounting a clincher tire on a 1921 Peugeot wheel. This trick eliminates the use of tire irons that could scratch the wheel. You simply drape a thin black plastic gargbage bag over the rim and push the tire down. The slipperiness of the bag makes the tire go on quickly and easily. You do have to put the tube inside the tire first and position the valve stem through the hole in the rim. Also, you do not cover the valve stem hole with the plastic bag. Watch the video and you'll see how easy this technique works. Joe says he wishes that there was an equally simple way to remove an original clincher tire!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6sH8WRl6yI
Saturday, October 24, 2009 1:59:16 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Friday, October 23, 2009
WILL '90 CARS EVER BE RESTORED?
Posted by John
It’s a question that you see discussed frequently in old-car magazines – will cars of the 1990s ever be restored? Some say “no way.” Others feel it’s just a matter of time. Auctioneers say that people start collecting the cars they wanted in high school when those cars turn 25 years old. The mortgage is paid, the kids have been put through college and suddenly the money is there to buy the dream car. I always accepted this view. Now, after taking a '90s car apart piece by piece, I've changed my thinking. People will certainly collect well-preserved 1990s cars. Some are doing this already. Other enthusiasts may even “fix up” a ‘90s car with minor repairs. But when it comes to a complete, ground-up restoration, I think that a 1990s car may be impossible to restore.
A 1994 Sunbird coupe inspired this “reality check.” The car was purchased to be an engine donor. It took about three and a half months of working nights and weekends to strip the car down to the bare essentials. When the job was finished, all that remained was the sub frame and body structure, the front A arms, the damaged right-hand door, the right rear quarter window, the backlight, the rear axle and suspension, the gas tank and a pair of temporary spare tires bolted to the rear wheel hubs (without brakes). In this form, the car was rollable and could be pulled away when all the parts were removed. As the car was disassembled, every part was “tagged and bagged.” Taking the car apart was supposed to be a “fun” project and a learning experience. Due to the complexity of the vehicle, stripping it down was more work than pleasure. The educational part of the job was also kind of a bust. For example, one would think that after taking hundreds of plastic electrical clips apart, you’d learn the right ways to disconnect them, but it seems like the factory procedure is to break the clip, throw it away and get a new one for reassembly. That’s great for GM clip sales, but what will future restorers do when all the clips are gone? Many parts on a 1990s car are fully recyclable and will soon be impossible to find. I believe that no one will ever do full restorations on '90s cars.
Friday, October 23, 2009 3:24:04 AM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Thursday, October 22, 2009
Cool Site For Restoration Tips and Advice
Posted by John
I just ran across a site for restoration tips and advice. Visit www.secondchancegarage.com. Second Chance Garage provides hobbyists with the know-how they need to restore their own classic cars and trucks. The Second Chance Garage philosophy is that with the understanding of the basic skills of car restoration, the hobbyist can restore any car...the underlying theory and practices are the same. The site offers a wide variety of articles from How-To's, Auto Theory, Buyer's Guides, Garage Tips, Auto-Biographies, just to mention a few. Online since 2002, Second Chance Garage has over 400 articles along with engine specs and a large photo gallery. Check it out as soon as you get the opportunity. You'll like it.
Thursday, October 22, 2009 8:24:21 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Chevy Racing Legend Bill Tomas Dies
Posted by John
Chevrolet high-performance legend Bill Thomas, Sr., died on Saturday Oct. 10 in California.
Over the years, Chevrolet drew on the talents of selected individuals to improve and promote Chevrolet products. Bill Thomas was a man who helped Chevrolet achieve racing superiority and lock in its high-performance reputation.
When the Chevy II arrived, he devised a kit that allowed enthusiasts to readily drop a 327-cid Corvette V-8 into the new Chevy compact. The kit included complete chassis and drive train upgrades to go along with the bigger engine.
Thomas created racing versions of the Corvair, too. In 1962, he built a fuel-injected 327-powered Chevy II for the SCCA Production class at Riverside Raceway. Known as "Bad Bascom's Ghost," the car was banned by SCCA and wound up with racer Dickie Harrell, who shoe horned a 427 Z11 V-8 under the hood and called it "Retribution II." The car was very successful in match racing.
The Cheetah was a street performance and racing car built by Thomas in the early- to mid-‘60s to run wheel-to-wheel with Carroll Shelby's Cobras. The prototype Cheetah was largely the work of a Thomas’ employee named Don Edmunds, but Thomas personally coordinated support for the project. Using his racing connections, Thomas arranged to have Chevrolet provide the car’s major component parts including its engine, transmission and third member.
When the 1967 Camaro arrived to compete for sales in the “youth market,” the car was capable of accommodating big-block V-8 power. Bill Thomas became one of a handful of dealers nationwide who marketed “super Camaros.”
Working through the Chevrolet Engineering Product Performance Group headed by Vince Piggins, the factory provided support to independent drag racers, some of who were Chevrolet factory dealers and enthusiasts.
Bill Thomas was a major force in Chevrolet racing through his Bill Thomas Race Cars in Anaheim, Calif. Then, he linked up with Nickey Chevrolet of Chicago to put 427-cid 425-hp V-8s into Camaro chassis. The Nickey/Bill Thomas Camaros won many drag races and more than a few showroom sales.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009 4:36:48 AM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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Monday, October 19, 2009
CURING LIFTER PROBLEMS ON OLD CARS
Posted by John
When “zero-lash” or “hydraulic” valve lifters caught on after World War II, they began to show up as a new-and-improved feature of many 1950s car. At first, mechanics of the era thought the days of making the valve lash adjustments required on solid-lifter engines were over. However, it didn’t take long for them to discover that even these new valve lifters could wear and that dirt could work its way into hydraulic valve lifters and cause problems.
When worn and/or dirty, hydraulic lifters would get sticky and make a racket. Car owners discovered that hydraulic lifters could click and clatter, too. Some brands of cars became known for their “lifter chatter” and enthusiasts of the day could identify certain cars by their distinctive underhood noises.
Fast driving often caused wear, while yesteryear’s carbon-fouled oils promoted the formation of sludge and varnish on engine parts such as lifters. When tearing down a modern engine, it is rare to find the caked-on carbon, black-colored parts and crusty creosote-like deposits that were commonly discovered in old engines disassembled not all that many years ago.
Back then, every mechanic knew the sound of a sticky lifter, but they also knew it was impossible to tell which lifters were making the noise. Most shops simply replaced all the lifters, since parts were relatively cheap and easy to get back then. In 1955, a set of lifters for a Cadillac overhead-valve V-8 cost about $16. The alternative was removing and cleaning every lifter and giving it a bleed-down test, which even at the era’s low labor rates cost more than new parts.
Today, the parts are harder to get and pricey, so it pays for hobby restorers to know about a way that old-time mechanics located noisy lifters. They figured out how to do this using a dial indicator type valve gapper. Eighty percent of cars with sticking lifters had problems because of varnish and gum building up between the barrel and plunger of the lifter. If these build-ups could be located, most bad lifters could be collapsed and cleaned with a fast-acting detergent.
First, the engine had to be started and allowed to idle long enough to reach operating temperature. Then, with the engine still idling, the tool’s barrel pin was placed in the lower hole and the valve gapper was set on each valve in turn. If the hands on the dial stayed steady, a lifter was OK. If the hand vibrated back and forth, it meant that a lifter was sticking or not working properly.
Mechanics usually chalk-marked the bad lifters. After all the lifters were checked, the barrel pin was placed in the upper hole again. Then, each of the bad lifters could be cleaned up. The valve gapper was placed on the valve spring assembly. Since the pin was now in the upper hole of the valve gapper, the lifter was put under enough increased tension to cause it to collapse. This depressed the lifter’s plunger into the barrel of the lifter, exposing any gum and varnish deposits. A squirt can was then used to force concentrated tune-up oil down the push rod, into the lifters, where it would usually dissolve the unwanted deposits.
After all of the bad lifters had been cleaned using this procedure, the barrel pin was moved back to the lower hole, so that the lifters could be re-checked in the same way they were at first. The mechanic would make doubly sure that all of the lifters that had been marked with chalk were no longer sticking. If a lifter was still bad, it meant that dirt was not the culprit. The lifter had a mechanical problem that could only be fixed by swapping in a different lifter.
The cost of checking lifters with a dial indicator valve gapper was approximately $15-$21 in 1957. This was less than the cost of removing and cleaning all lifters and far less than the cost of an overhaul with new lifters. Even though a set of lifters was only $16, the job also included labor, tune up oil and an oil and filter change, which made total replacement more expensive. With today’s high costs of vintage car parts, the savings would be even greater.
Monday, October 19, 2009 5:42:57 AM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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