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 Wednesday, November 04, 2009
Checking Hoses
Posted by John
An important part of your winter car maintenance should be the inspection of all water hoses for signs of deterioration. Overlooking a bad upper or lower radiator hose or heater hose in the spring can lead to overheating problems next summer.
The first thing to check for is leaking hoses. If you see antifreeze anywhere, a hose is seeping or leaking and must be replaced immediately. Hoses that prove to be excessively hard, brittle, soft, mushy or swollen must also be changed. Squeeze and bend the hoses to look for cracks in the middle of the hose. Cracks at the ends are usually quite obvious. If in doubt about the condition of any hose, replace it now and avoid any problems when hot weather arrives.
Obtain the correct hoses for your car at an auto parts store, if possible. For antique or collector cars, check the websites of hose manufacturers like Gates or check www.rockauto.com. While, in the end,it may be cheaper to buy the hose locally to save shipping, these websites can help you determine proper part numbers. Also, it seems like Rock Auto has worked out many cross applications to determine which current hoses fit specific older cars.
If you need to replace heater hoses, measure both the length and inside diameter of the old hose. Heater hose comes in ½-, 5/8- or ¾-in. sizes and is usually sold by the foot. On some cars, the inlet hose may be a different size than the outlet hose, so don’t measure only one and assume they’re the same.
You should also plan on replacing old hose clamps, which tend to weaken and corrode with age. If you car is restored and you want an authentic look under the hood, you will have to look for hobby suppliers who sell original equipment reproductions. Whatever style of clamp you purchase, stay away from cheap look-a-like clamps as many of them do not work as well as the name brands. A high-quality clamp will cost a little more, but it’s worth it.
To replace a hose, start by letting the car cool completely so you don’t get scalded by hot antifreeze. Place a drain pan or bucket under the radiator. Then open the petcock or valve near the bottom of the radiator. If you are going to install new coolant, dispose of the old coolant immediately, since it’s poisonous. Keep your pets away from the old coolant. They tend to like its sweet taste
Remove the hose clamps from your old hose with pliers or a screwdriver, depending upon the style of clamp. Then, twist and pull the old hose loose. If it won’t come off easily, you may have to split the old hose with a sharp knife or razor blade cutter. Sometimes a hose will pull off better with pliers than by hand.
Remove the hose and carefully scrape the metal (or plastic) hose fittings clean. Before installing a new hose, apply a small amount of non-hardening gasket sealer to the fitting only. Don’t put sealer inside the hose, as any excess amount could get into and clog the cooling system. The sealer will also help the hose slide onto the fitting.
Slide the new clamps onto your new hose before you slide the hose on the fittings. Make sure the hose ends slide over the fittings far enough to allow the hose clamps to grab the fitting and make a tight seal. Now move the hose clamps near the ends of the hose and tighten all the clamps. Fill the radiator with coolant and start the car to check the cooling system for any leaks. Recheck the coolant level after the engine has achieved its proper operating temperature.
Wednesday, November 04, 2009 1:00:22 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00) 
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Tuesday, November 03, 2009
Car collector John Q’Quinn dies in car crash
Posted by John
Here is an update on the news posted yesterday:
Well-known lawyer and car collector John Maurice O’Quinn was killed on Thursday, Oct. 29, when the Chevrolet Suburban he was driving skidded on a rain-soaked Houston, Texas highway and slammed into a tree, causing heavy damage to the SUV. The 68-year-old attorney was famous both for securing $17.3 billion settlement from tobacco companies and for his collection of some 800 vintage cars, which had previously been featured in Old Cars Weekly. O’Quinn was said to be working on the creation of a car museum.
Houston police reports said the fatal accident took place on the city’s Allen Parkway. Also killed in the crash was Johnny Lee Cutliff who was believed to be O’Quinn’s personal assistant. News photos show that t\he front end and other sections of the black Suburban the men were driving was severely damaged.
O'Quinn was born in 1941. His father was an auto mechanic who raised him alone and gave him a stiff upbringing. The family was of modest means and John had no opportunities to have hobbies such as collecting cars. It was not until he struggled to his celebrated status as a top-ranked attorney that he was able to buy the car he enjoyed and dreamed of owning.
His collection includes a half-dozen Duesenbergs, a Lincoln-Continental limousine once owned by President John F. Kennedy, a Barris-built Batmobile, President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Packard Limousine and a Ford Escort once owned by Pope John Paul II. O’ Quinn brought four cars to the recent Louisville Concours d’Elegance, a 1930 Stutz Model M Supercharged coupe with low-slung Lancefield of London coachwork, a 1934 Duesenberg Model J Brunn Riviera Phaeton, a 1929 Rolls-Royce Springfield Phantom I Riviera Town Brougham with a massive 4468-cid six-cylinder engine and the famed TV Batmobile.
O’ Quinn’s personal life was one of ups and downs. He was a self-made man who reached the pinnacle of success in his field and made friends and enemies while rising to fame as one of the top tort lawyers in the country. However, his influence in the world of car collecting was as powerful as the huge Texan’s “Big Man” persona. Enthusiasts throughout the world were looking forward to the opening of his museum, which visitors say was being planned so that each floor would represent a different decade in automotive history.
Newspaper reports said that Q’ Quinn had no wife or children. Darla Lexington, the woman in charge of the corporation that managed his automobile collection, is said to have also provided a positive influence in the lawyer’s life in recent times. Both of their names were seen on the vehicle identification plaques at the Louisville Concours d’Elegance.
O'Quinn's death behind the wheel of a car is an ironic ending for an enthusiast who drove fast sports cars and spent the last 10 years or so putting together one of the world's newest giant-sized classic car collections. Old car professionals like John Mark, of Illinois, who visited the collection earlier this year, marveled at the investment that O’ Quinn was making in his hobby. Many news stories about the tragedy discuss the hills and valleys of O’Quinn’s personal life, but there can be no doubt he will be missed in collector car circles.
Captions
One of John O’Quinn’s classic cars was this 1930 Stutz Model M Supercharged coupe with low-slung Lancefield of London coachwork. (Jim Rugowski photo)
An unidentified driver parks John O’Quinn’s 1930 Stutz Model M Supercharged coupe at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Ken. The Stutz has a 322-cid overhead cam vertical eight that produces 134 hp. (Jim Rugowski photo)
O’Quinn brought his 1934 Duesnberg Model J Brunn Riviera Phaeton to the recent Louisville Concours d’Elegance with three other classic cars. (Jim Rugowski photo)
O’Quinn was a big Texan and liked big, impressive cars like this 1929 Rolls-Royce Springfield Phantom I Riviera Town Brougham with its massive 468-cid in-line six. (Jim Rugowski photo)
Cars that were owned or built by famous people were also part of the Houston-based collection and included the Batmobile that customizer George Barris designed for the “Batman” television series. (Jim Rugowski photo)
Tuesday, November 03, 2009 12:57:22 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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Sunday, November 01, 2009
CLASSIC CAR COLLECTOR O'QUINN KILLED
Posted by John
News reports say that Houston, Texas attorney John O'Quinn lost control of his SUV on rain-slicked Allen Parkway and the Chevy Suburban hit a tree killing O'Quinn and a passenger. According to Houston police reports, the accident occurred on Thursday morning. O'Quinn was well known in the old car hobby for the private Classic Car museum he was working on in Houston.
Sunday, November 01, 2009 6:07:21 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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Friday, October 30, 2009
Wintertime Tire Tinkering
Posted by John
When it’s freezing outside, a car collector’s garage can be the warmest place in town. After the holiday rush, the world quiets down a bit and gives you time to tinker with those jobs you never seem to get done during the summer. Tire care is an area that shouldn’t be overlooked.
Inflation pressures
Tire inflation pressure should be checked every month when it’s cold outside. If one or more tires are consistently lower than others, look for a slow leak. A bad seal or porous aluminum wheels may allow air to gradually escape.
Keep in mind that the inflation pressure will drop or raise approximately one pound per square inch with every 10-degrees fall or rise in atmospheric temperature. So, as it gets colder in your storage building, your tires will lose air.
You can get the most from your tires by keeping them inflated to the recommended pressures all year long. Tests show that 30 percent under-inflation reduces tire life by one-half. Cars stored with tires that are under-inflated are more likely to develop “flat spots.”
To keep your classic car’s tires from flat spotting, move the car back or forth a couple of feet on a regular basis, while it’s in winter storage. If this is not possible, you may want to store the car with stand jacks supporting the axles so the tires are an inch or so off the floor.
Tire switching
Tire switching is what they called "rotating your tires" back you’re your old car was new. Switching tires from one position to another on the car usually prolongs their life. With four good tires, experts suggest cross-changing them from right front to left rear and left front to right rear at regular intervals.
With five good tires, the order of rotation is to put the spare on the right rear; the right rear tire on the left front; the left front on the left rear; the left rear on the right front; and make the right front the spare.
By switching tires, in this manner, every 4,000 miles, you could drive 20,000 miles and put only 16,000 miles of wear on your tires. Winter is the perfect time to switch tires on a collector car.
(Note that this information is for tires made right after World War II, and the rotation patterns would not be the same for tires with more modern construction. However, even modern tires will benefit from regular rotation.)
Changing tires
Whether you’re rotating your tires in the winter or making repairs, safety is an important consideration when changing tires. Probably most tire changes made on collector cars are made with the help of a hydraulic jack, a lift, or a hoist. However, if a bumper jack is used, follow the factory instructions for jacking.
The following instructions are for a 1940s model, but the procedure for many other old cars is similar:
1. Set the hand brake securely and remove the hubcap. Barely loosen the nuts which hold the wheel in place, using the socket and jack handle. (Be careful. On some older makes the wheel nuts on the left side may turn in the clockwise direction, while those on the right side may turn counter-clockwise).
2. Set the small lever on the side of the jack to the "up" position and place the jack under the bumper, in a vertical position, about 18 in. from the center of the front bumper or 24 in. from the center of the rear bumper. Pump the jack handle until the tire is clear of the road. If the lifter on the jack is too high on the stand to slip under the bumper, set the small lever on the side of the lifter to the "down" position, lift up on the socket handle, and slide the lifter down.
3. Turn off the nuts that hold the wheel in place, using the socket and the end of the jack handle. Slide the wheel from the hub and replace it with the spare wheel and tire. Replace the nuts and tighten the hub nuts all around.
4. To lower the car, set the small lever on the side of the lifter to its "down" position. Lower the jack and tighten the hub nuts with the wheel on the ground. Replace the hub nut.
Although you may never need to jack up your old car with a bumper jack, it's a good idea to try it out under non-emergency conditions in the winter. Then you’ll know how to operate the jack and change a tire, should you have a flat while touring in the summer.
Tire balance
Tires were marked at the factory with a red mark on the sidewall, near the bead, denoting the lightest point of the casing. The valve stem is the heavy point of the tube and should always be placed at the mark. All tires (and tubes in the old days) varied in their individual amounts of off-balance. Therefore, they were matched at the factory to counter-balance each other.
Due to irregularities in tread wear, caused by sudden brake applications, misalignment, low inflation pressures, tube or tire repairs, etc., a tire and tube assembly can lose its original balance.
If any disturbance is the steering wheel was felt while touring last summer, or if pounding, tramping, or shimmying was experienced while driving the car, one of the first items to check is wheel and tire balance.
Saving tires when you drive
If you check your tires in the winter, they will be ready for springtime driving. When you start driving again, remember that maximum tire life can be achieved by careful attention to driving habits and regular tire service. Here’s 10 tips to caring for your tires once winter ends.
1. Keep tires properly inflated at all times.
2. Avoid spinning your wheels when starting.
3. Avoid sudden stops.
4. Turn corners at moderate speeds.
5. Steer around bumps, ruts, or minor obstructions in the road.
6. Keep out of car tracks.
7. Do not bump or scrape the curb.
8. Keep the front wheels in proper alignment.
9. Keep brakes adjusted. Bad adjustment causes uneven tire wear.
10. Don't forget to check the spare tire's pressure once in a while.
11. Interchange (rotate) tires every 4,000 miles.
Friday, October 30, 2009 1:06:09 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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Thursday, October 29, 2009
TINKER TONIGHT TOO
Posted by John
Thursday night is the time I work on my cars every week. So I will be busy in the garage tonight, but here are some quick tech tips I want to pass on before going out to the shop. Maybe one or two will help you with a project and have you tinkering away tonight, too.
When working on an engine that is going to be partly disassembled for a length of time, use duct tape, plastic or old newspaper and masking tape to cover up openings for bolt-on parts like manifolds and water pumps. This will keep dirt and debris out of the motor.
Sometimes long valve cover gaskets will be distorted by normal packaging and allow oil leaks. This can be remedied by unpacking the new gaskets and slipping them over the top of a spare valve cover for at least several hours before installing them.
If your car is missing on acceleration and has rubber spark plug boots, try the following remedy. Rubber spark plug boots that have become hard and carbonized with age will cause spark leakage and flashing. Cut off the boots and replace them with new ones.
Dirt and sediment build up in carburetors. Run the car at 1,000-2,000 rpm with the air cleaner off. Put your hand over the air intake until the car almost stalls. Repeat a few times. Engine vacuum pulls raw gas through the carburetor cleaning jets and passages.
Water pump squealing and hard to reach for lubrication? A foot-long piece of 1/8-inch copper tubing can be bent to reach into the lubricating hole. Use a windshield wiper hose on the upper end to couple a squirt-type oil can to the tubing and pump oil into the hole.
If the “Temp” indicator light on your ‘60s GM car is glowing, though the car is not overheating, be sure the ignition switch is completely returned to the “on” position from the “start” position. The light comes on in the “start” position to check that it is working.
Did you know that leaving a battery carrying strap on the terminals will cause a chemical reaction that results in a gooey white substance building up on the terminals? If you use a strap to remove a battery before storing a car, be sure to remove the strap.
Bent terminals or longer-than-stock screws on your voltage regulator can touch the metal firewall and cause electrical shorts. To prevent, this fasten a piece of gasket material or rubber tire patch to the firewall directly behind the voltage regulator terminals.
The taillights of an older car will burn brighter if you thoroughly clean up any heavy rust on the insides of the housings and then carefully paint the insides of the lamp receptacles with white enamel to increase their reflectivity.
To clean a car battery while it is out of the car, sprinkle a handful of sawdust on the battery. Let it stand for a few minutes, with the sawdust soaking up mud, moisture and corrosion. Then sweep it off and remove residue with your shop vac.
Having trouble separating a rusty tailpipe and muffler? Try loosening the clamp on the end of the muffler and slipping it down the pipe a few inches. Then, tighten it on the pipe and drive the pipe out of the muffler by striking the clamp with hammer blows.
A transmission gasket can stick to parts – especially a torque converter -- making it hard to remove. Try coating the gasket with paint and varnish remover. Wait a few minutes while this solvent sets into the gasket material and you’ll find that it strips off very easily.
Thursday, October 29, 2009 10:12:18 PM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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Wednesday, October 28, 2009
VW FAN BELT QUICK CHANGE
Posted by John
You gotta see this U-Tube video. How to change a VW fan belt in less than five minutes. To remove the old belt, the mechanic sticks a screw driver under the belt at just the right spot with the engine running. Viola. The belt jumps right off. Then he uses the reversed screwdriver handle against the top pulley to make it stop spinning, Next he balances the new belt on the tip of the screwdrive blade, loops it over the stationary top pulley and uses the screwdriver blade to quickly guide it onto the still-spinning bottom pulley. Sounds crazy but it works. Watch the video. He runs it twice.
By the way, Old Cars Weekly's software for this blog is acting up, so I can only print my entries as text only and I can't paste in hyper links. However, if you copy this address and paste it into your Web browser, it should get you to the VW fan belt video.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009 2:43:16 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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HEY, YOU, GET OFF OF MY CLOUD
Posted by John
This isn’t about Mick Jagger – it’s about what a car collector might say if someone sat on his Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud during a car show. Or his Chevy or Harley. And don’t think that it doesn’t happen. A recent letter to Hagerty Classic Insurance cited an extreme case that unfolded recently in Georgia. A man wouldn’t stop laying on a collector car and authorities finally had to lead him away.
Things don’t usually get that bad, but dripping ice cream cones, paint-scratching belt buckles and kids throwing stones can cause real damage to a car that took thousands of dollars to restore.
The first line of defense against drippers, sitters, chafers and scrapers is your own vocal cords. Stay by your car at the show and if someone gets close, politely point out your concern. Try not to yell or sound “uppity,” because such reactions can cause immature people to return and do bad things out of spite. The best approach is a firm, but friendly reminder that paint, chrome, glass . . . and even sheet metal . . . can be damaged quite easily.
To back up your physical presence -- or fill in when you can’t be around -- you can hang signs on your car. There are any number of these “look but don’t touch” signs available from various old-car parts vendors. To tell you the truth, some of them are fun to read, but they may not be all that effective in protecting your vehicle. People just don’t stop to read before squeezing past your fender.
Some collectors go further and rope their cars off with thin metal stakes and binder cord. These items can be purchased at most garden centers or farm supply stores and they do a great job for a small investment. Four of the stakes can easily be carried in the trunk of most collector cars. They are designed with a triangular blade that you step on to push them into relatively soft dirt. Put one at each corner of the vehicle then, string the cord. A few strands of Blaze Orange safety ribbon can be added to call attention to the cord.
Since many car shows park vehicles on asphalt, push-in stakes can’t always be used. To accomplish the same kind of protection, some hobbyists buy plastic stanchions and chains to serve the same purpose. These cost a bit more, but they certainly look better and can even enhance the image of a car being special. These items come in black and white and a variety of colors.
A product called the Auto Spin Portable Automobile Display Turntable was advertised not too long ago. It was pictured supporting a small 1930s car and it seemed to do a good job of holding the car off the ground, while allowing it to be rotated. You got the impression that a “floating” car might cause people to stand back a few feet. This device may be worth checking out at www.Auto-Spin.com.
Another place to look for barrier type products is in catalogs aimed at factory and facility managers. I am on the mailing list to get one of these and I usually scan it for things I might be able to use in my storage building. The catalog is sent out by a company named Direct Safety. It includes such things as Dayglow Orange safety cones, “Polycade” plastic barriers and safety mats that could be used around or under a car to keep the public at a safe distance. Visit www.directsafety.com to request a copy.
Before spending a fortune on such items and buying a trailer to haul them around, it would be a good idea to check with the promoters of local shows to see if they are permitted. Some events have restrictions. It may turn out that your vocal cords are still the best way to keep “belt buckle” troubles at bay.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009 2:18:38 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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Monday, October 26, 2009
SAY "CHEESE IT" TO MICE
Posted by John
In old cops-and-robber movies, “cheese it” meant “get out of here.” I haven’t heard that expression in years and I wish I could say the same about stories of mice ruining historic cars. It’s a shame to see the damage the little varmints can do when collectors store vehicles without taking precautions.
The best way to mouse-proof a car is to mouse-proof the building the car is in. Make sure it a “rat guard” – a barrier that goes around the bottom of the structure and into the ground. Rat guards are designed to keep pests from tunneling in.
Fill in spaces on the bottom of the walls with a foam that hardens or steel wool. Keep doors and windows sealed as tightly as possible. Use gaskets to seal openings for utility lines.
Keep food out of your building . . . and your cars. An army of mice travels on its stomach. If there’s nothing for them to eat, you win the war. Vacuum the interior. Remove crumbs and food scraps. Shampoo the carpets so they are squeaky clean and fresh smelling.
Mouse traps and poisons come in a variety of forms at various prices. They work, but remember that traps baited with cheese and poisons like those blue-green pellets are designed to attract mice, then kill them. Not attracting mice is a better plan of action.
Cats kill mice, but cats can also cause damage to cars or stink them Cats also require cat food that mice will eat.
Mice usually enter cars by running up the tires. If the vehicle is stored without tires, it is harder for them to get in. Removing the tires and using jack stands will also keep the tires from developing flat spots.
Mice commonly nest in the engine compartment, interior and trunk. Mice are drawn to warm engines of heater motors. Often you will find nests in the frame rail nearest the radiator. Mice will eat electrical wires and spark plug wires. Recently, one Studebaker collector hit on a simple way to keep an engine bay mouse-free – raise the hood. After he inadvertently left his hood up, his mouse problem went away. Mice like it dark. With the hood open, light got in.
Mice can enter cars through openings for pedals, steering columns and shifters. If you can tape such openings, mice will find it harder to get inside. Leave the sun visors in the down position or mice may nest under them and chew through the headliner. Use screening if you want to keep the windows slightly open for circulation.
Mice usually get into trunks through the rear seat. They can’t get in if you seal the openings. Some cars have drain holes in the spare tire well that should be taped over.
Mothballs can be placed on the floor around the car, but leave no gaps. You can also place mothballs or scented soap in a cake pan inside the car to keep mice away. In spring, the mothball smell can be removed by putting a Yankee Candle under the car seat on a hot day.
Cacoon-style bags seal the whole car. One type is a big plastic sack. You drive the car in and zip it up. A second type is a plastic bubble supported by a curtain of air. The air pump draws little current and promotes better airflow. Both bags work well if you use them properly. You must be very careful not to trap moisture in a zipper bag. The air-curtain type requires electricity.
Spot check the car every couple of weeks for signs of mice. If you see droppings or notice a mouse smell, you’ll first have to get rid of the mice. Then you’ll need to remedy the problem of the mice getting in the car.
Monday, October 26, 2009 5:01:42 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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Sunday, October 25, 2009
USE A PLASTIC BAG TO MOUNT A TIRE
Posted by John
Here's a tip that came in from my old friend Byron "Joe" Stout III down in Wichita, Kansas. Clip and paste the web address below into your Web browser (sorry, my hyper-link function isn't working right now) and will take you to a U-Tube video that shows a mam mounting a clincher tire on a 1921 Peugeot wheel. This trick eliminates the use of tire irons that could scratch the wheel. You simply put the thin, black, plastic garbage bag over the rim and push down. The slipperiness of the bag makes the tire go on quickly and easily. You do have to put the tube inside the tire first and position the valve stem through the hole in the rim. Also, you do not cover the valve stem hole with the plastic bag. Watch the video and you'll see how easy this technique works. Joe says he wishes that there was an equally simple way to remove the old tire!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6sH8WRl6yI
Sunday, October 25, 2009 2:19:21 AM (GMT Standard Time, UTC+00:00)
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Saturday, October 24, 2009
EASY CLINCHER TIRE INSTALL
Posted by John
Here's a tip that came in from my old friend Byron "Joe" Stout III down in Wichita, Kansas. Clip and paste the web address below into your Web browser (sorry, my hyper-link function isn't working right now) and it will take you to a U-Tube video that shows a man mounting a clincher tire on a 1921 Peugeot wheel. This trick eliminates the use of tire irons that could scratch the wheel. You simply drape a thin black plastic gargbage bag over the rim and push the tire down. The slipperiness of the bag makes the tire go on quickly and easily. You do have to put the tube inside the tire first and position the valve stem through the hole in the rim. Also, you do not cover the valve stem hole with the plastic bag. Watch the video and you'll see how easy this technique works. Joe says he wishes that there was an equally simple way to remove an original clincher tire!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6sH8WRl6yI
Saturday, October 24, 2009 1:59:16 PM (GMT Daylight Time, UTC+01:00)
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